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Does anyone know where I can purchase 1/2" 13 propeller t-nuts needed for assembly of go-bar system?

any major hardware store. 1/2"-13unc is the standard 1/2" cource thread, so they will be easy to find. They will be referd to as 1/2-13 wing nuts.MichaelP38629.3900231481

[QUOTE=bob J] Does anyone know where I can purchase 1/2" 13 propeller t-nuts needed for assembly of go-bar system?[/QUOTE]

That baby's gonna Fly! Propeller nuts! That sounds like something you would call a crazy pilot.

Just my 2 cents...if you get a chance take a look at Bob Taylor's factory Friday video. I always liked vacuum clamping anyway but when you consider the expense of all the wood/pipe/flying nuts and gobars themselves ( plus a lazy suzan if you want it to spin) and the foot print...mostly the foot print...it's much nicer to make/have a vacuum system. Most of the wood you probably have laying around. the biggest expense is the rubber. I already had a pump but I understand there is a way to use a compressor as well. In fact, Harry Fleishman uses old refrigerator pumps/compressors. Anyway. you can build a fairly portable unit ( see LMI's book for details) and store it out of the way when not needed. It also helps cure the glue quicker ( so they say). I would throw my go bar deck away if I could lift it! I use vacuum clamping for my bridges and love it. I also use it for holding the guitar stable ( I have one of those LMI aluminum contraptions). Just my .02

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

Wing nuts wont work. These are the nuts that you push through the bottom of the bottom plate and screw the 1/2" into. Must be flat on bottom. Have looked at Home Depot, Ace, Rockler. They all have this type of nut but they all end size and 3/8"

Bob, try woodworker's supply.

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/search.exe?BP=1


Ron

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Ron Wisdom

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Ok flange mount nuts got-ya now. It may be hard to find in 1/2" local. I am with Ron then try Woodworker.com

   I think you are overengineering the thing. I use 1/2 by 13 threaded rod and nuts , then to this I use schedule 40 1/2 " pipe. This works as the separator and allows you to use the nuts and make it simple.
    If you want to make it a knock down unit us wing nuts on the top.
john hall

Speaking of over engineering I just built a second deck. My main deck is built into my wall studs and bench top. So I built a second that is portable. The bottom is 2 pcs of 3/4 birch ply laminated togather with .984 dia holes at the corners, that take a 1.00 dia oak dowel rod that is pined with 3/8" tapered dowels from each of the two edges on each rod. The top is one piece of 3/4" birch ply with 1.06 holes in the corners. the rods have 1/4" rectangular though mortices for tapered hamer wedges top side and bottom side of the top plate. Disassembles totally and other than laminated bottom plate no glued or threaded joints.

I have to rebuild my gobar deck as my old one was built into a workbench and actually cracked the top of the bench

Wow Richard. How long did you use this go-bar deck? I just built mine into the bench and I made a 2x4 frame with 8" centers for my 28"x42" bench than I screwed 2 sheets of 3/8 plywood to the frame. This is specifically for the go-bar and secondly as a bench.
I suspect that would take a lot of pressure to crack the top of your bench unless the top was not thick enough or supported enough. Sorry to hear you have to build a new one.

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Thanks for info. Tried wood worker-no 1/2 inch

My bench top was 1 1/2" X 3/4" thick laminated Multi ply birch screwwed and glued down to a 2x4 frame. It ended up crcking one of the laminations. I'll probably glue a sheet of 3/4 " ply on top of that and get it going again. There is a lot of presure on it when You have all those sticks pushing down. I've done about 20 guitars on this deck, all bracing as well as glueing tops and backs on. I think I was using too much presure though. I break a lot of go bar sticks.arvey38632.4074537037

Take a bathroom scale set it on your deck, place a bar centered on it The scale should read somewhere between 5 and 10 lbs if the scale is accurate. If you are getting 18 to 25# readings you are putting too much tenion on the bars for good bracing glue joint all that is really needed is enough to insure the brace makes constant contact over the intire length of the brace in therory this could be done with 1# or even less with perfect shaped braces and plates but of cource we don't live in a perfect world.